14 Days in Paradise: Your Ultimate Guide to Exploring Costa Rica

From lush rainforests and towering volcanoes to pristine beaches and vibrant wildlife, Costa Rica is a destination that offers a little bit of everything. It truly embodies the "Pura Vida" lifestyle—a way of living that celebrates simplicity, joy, and a deep connection to nature.

This trip was our honeymoon, but it wasn’t all about relaxing. Instead, we focused on doing what we love—exploring! We covered a lot of ground, driving over 1300 km to see as much of the country as possible. Here’s our itinerary:

San Jose 1 night

• Barrio Amon

Cahuita / Puerto Viejo 2 nights

• Bri Bri Tour

• Cacao Trails - Museo de Cacao

• Playa Negra

• Playa Punta Uva & Iara Sosa (hanging palm tree)

La Fortuna 3 nights

• La Fortuna Waterfall

• Blue Falls

• Cooking Class

• Rope Swing

• Arenal 1968 Volcanic National Park

• Mistico Park Hanging Bridges

Monteverde 2 nights

• Night Walk Tour

• Coffee Tour

Santa Teresa 3 nights

• Surfing at Playa Hermosa

• Montezuma Wild Beach

• Montezuma Waterfall

• Horizonte Horse Experience

• Infinity pool at Hotel Vista de Olas

• Playa Manzanillo

Uvita / Manuel Antonio 3 nights

• Brisa Elegante Sailship

• Manuel Antonio National Park / Playa Espadilla

• Rancho La Merced Horse Riding Tour

Car hire

We rented a car through Europcar via the ADAC website, opting for full insurance coverage. You don’t need to be an ADAC member, but it’s a bit cheaper if you are. Some rental companies exclude compulsory insurance, which means the price can increase when you pick up the car. We initially booked an SUV, but we were lucky to be offered an upgrade to a 4x4 for just $5 extra per day. For 17 days, we paid $1500.

Given the many potholes and some steep, unsealed roads, we highly recommend going for a 4x4. The dry season made driving easier, as there was no mud to worry about. From the airport, the Europcar transfer bus took us to the agency in about 10 minutes—thankfully, as the traffic around the airport was chaotic. We arrived late at night, just before closing, and had to wait as it was pretty busy. On the way back, we dropped off the car in the morning, and everything went much faster. They did suggest arriving at least 3 hours before our flight, which gave us plenty of time.

After doing some research, we learned it’s best not to leave valuables in the car, always lock the doors when driving, and keep the windows up for safety.

Costs 

We were a bit taken aback by the high prices at cafes and restaurants, but it makes sense given the emphasis on fresh, local, and organic ingredients. Keep in mind that some places don’t include the 13% tax and 10% service fee in their menu prices, so the final bill can be higher than expected. Also, it’s a good idea to carry USD 1 bills for tipping!

SIM card

When we landed at SJO airport, we decided not to grab a SIM card right away. While there’s a Claro SIM counter at baggage claim, it’s not always open. Since we arrived late at night, we couldn’t reach our Airbnb host, so we had to hunt for a bar with Wi-Fi. The next day, we picked up a SIM at the San Pedro Mall through Kolbi. They offer a tourist package with 5 GB of regular data, 5 GB for specific apps (like WhatsApp, Instagram, Facebook, and Waze), plus 100 minutes for national calls. We paid about $20 for the package. It took a bit of time to get the SIM, and we were in a bit of a rush, so we set everything up later. Unfortunately, one of the SIM cards had issues, so it would have been better to make sure it worked while we were still in the store.

Since then, we’ve switched to Saily, a data-only eSIM. It’s super easy to set up and offers a 10GB, 30-day plan for around $44 in Costa Rica. If you’re interested, use my referral code **FREDER4200** for $3 off your first purchase!

San José

Where to stay? We stayed in an Airbnb - Barrio Escalante, where a lovely garden separates the private annex from the main house. This neighborhood is perfect for those looking to explore trendy bars, cafes, and restaurants.

During our time in Barrio Escalante, we discovered a couple of real gems right next to each other:

Franco Escalante: We kicked off our Costa Rican adventure with some incredibly healthy and delicious smoothies and burritos here.

Libertario Coffee Roasters: If you’re a coffee lover, this place is a must-visit. The coffee is simply outstanding!

We took a stroll through the historic Barrio Amon neighborhood, where we were captivated by the grand 19th-century mansions. Many of these elegant buildings have been transformed into charming hotels, cafes, and bars. The area is also a blend of street art and historical mosaic murals, adding to its vibrant atmosphere. Lush greenery weaves through the buildings, complementing the colorful, tropical architecture. While we did feel a bit uneasy in some parts, and the streets were fairly quiet with few other tourists, we appreciated how drivers would stop to let us cross the road.

There’s so much more to discover in San José, but a morning wandering the streets was just enough for us. Afterward, we decided to drive to Cahuita. A helpful tip: groceries are more affordable in San José, so it’s worth stocking up there before heading out!

Cahuita / Puerto Viejo

Our itinerary was the opposite route of most travelers. Many people tend to skip Cahuita and Puerto Viejo since they’re located farther along the Caribbean coast. While the drive is usually estimated at around 3.5 hours, it ended up taking us nearly 5 hours—which is pretty typical. The road through the jungle had ongoing roadworks, and we were stuck for about 30 minutes while traffic from the opposite direction was let through. It seemed like a regular delay, as people got out of their cars, and vendors walked up and down the road selling drinks and snacks. We were also surprised by how many banana and pineapple plantations we passed, and it wasn’t uncommon to see small planes flying overhead spraying the crops.

Cahuita and Puerto Viejo are only about a 20-minute drive apart. Puerto Viejo is the larger of the two, and most tourists tend to stay here.

A heads-up—this area is extremely humid, with plenty of mosquitoes, and there’s a risk of malaria or dengue fever, so make sure to take precautions.

Where to stay? Airbnb - Jungle Spirit Treehouse

This was by far our favorite place to stay. Set on an abandoned cocoa plantation, this self-sustained eco treehouse is completely off the grid. Designed to harmonize with nature, it minimizes its environmental impact by utilizing the land’s natural features and protecting local biodiversity. Located near Cahuita, it’s about a 10-minute drive up a steep gravel road from the main highway. The treehouse is wonderfully remote, with no other buildings in sight, offering a true escape into nature.

The design of the treehouse seamlessly blends the indoors with the outdoors, with plenty of natural light and a green roof adorned with hanging vines. A large tree even rises from the balcony, and a hammock stretches from its trunk to the house. Inside, the space has a luxurious, boho-chic vibe. The bathroom is a standout, featuring an open-air shower and bathtub. Another unique feature is a suspended net—perfect for spotting wildlife from a front-row seat. Each morning, we were woken up at dawn by the howler monkeys, followed by an orchestra of birds, including colorful toucans.

The treehouse offers a beautiful view of Cahuita Beach, framed perfectly by the surrounding trees. From the balcony, a small swing bridge led to a medicinal garden where we were free to pick fresh plants, herbs, fruits, and vegetables. As we wandered through the garden, we reached a viewpoint above the tree canopy, offering breathtaking views. A short walk further down takes you to a peaceful stream.

When we arrived, fresh herbs and fruit had already been picked from the garden and placed in the kitchen for us to use. We’ve never tasted bananas, mangoes, papayas, and pineapples so delicious! There was so much that we even made a smoothie. The treehouse has a kitchen tap with drinking water, and during check-in, our host, Tom, picked a ripe cocoa pod from a tree and cracked it open for us to try. The soft outer flesh was sweet, but the seed inside was very bitter, so we spat it out as most people do. To keep the bugs at bay, they provided us with mosquito repellent, coils, and wristbands—an absolute lifesaver!

Food recommendations in Puerto Viejo:

• De Gustibus Bakery: A great spot for reasonably priced, delicious pastries.

• Grow: This beachfront vegetarian restaurant offers amazing dishes! We loved the smoothie, nachos, and burrito—everything was fantastic.

Food recommendations in Cahuita:

• La Playa Coffee and Gelato: This beachside food truck served us some of the most delicious gelato—perfect for a treat by the sea.

• Restaurante Las Olas: Offering a mix of traditional dishes, Caribbean specialties, and fresh seafood, this spot is a must-try for a taste of local flavors.

We booked the Bribri Indigenous Culture tour through Airbnb Experiences, and it was an unforgettable journey into the heart of Bribri traditions. We met in Puerto Viejo and followed our indigenous guide—a local who grew up in the area—for a 20-minute drive to the tribe's village. Our guide shared fascinating stories about their culture, which has lived in harmony with nature for centuries. Throughout the tour, we also picked up a few words of the Bribri language.

Our adventure began with a hands-on chocolate-making experience, where we learned about the sacred cocoa drink. The first step involved crushing cocoa seeds with a large rock, and we got to try it ourselves. Once the seeds were ground enough, we watched a unique technique where the seeds were tossed into the air to remove the skin. The remaining cocoa was then ground further in a machine. We were treated to fresh, pure cocoa wrapped in a banana leaf and cooked over a fire—it was incredibly delicious! Afterward, we sampled a few variations of the traditional hot cocoa drink, made with sugar, cinnamon, water, and milk powder.

Next, we visited a hut showcasing traditional clothing, tools, and weapons, where our guide humorously explained their uses. We then walked through the village as our guide pointed out various plants and their practical uses. For example, a certain seed is used for makeup, and many plants serve as natural medicine. We also saw a fenced area dedicated to frog conservation, which was an unexpected highlight.

The tour ended in a large, teepee-shaped hut used for rituals and ceremonies. It was dimly lit, with a fire in the center, creating a mystical atmosphere. Before leaving, we had the chance to buy traditional hand-crafted souvenirs, a perfect reminder of this incredible cultural experience.

This area is well-known for its delicious chocolate, so we couldn’t miss a tour at Cacao Trails - Museo de Cacao. They offer both a one-hour and a two-hour tour, and we opted for the longer one. The cost is $25 per person, payable in cash. While some of the techniques and information were similar to what we learned on the Bri Bri tour, the methods here focused more on the commercial process, which was quite different from the traditional approach.

The tour began with a fascinating introduction to a wide range of fruits, vegetables, and plants we’d never encountered before. We explored the expansive plantation, learning about how cacao is grown, the drying process, and how the chocolate is crafted. Along the way, we enjoyed a generous tasting of chocolate paired with a variety of fresh fruits, making for a sweet and educational experience.

We woke up early and headed to Playa Negra, a stunning black sand beach in Cahuita. We parked by the side of the road at the beach's far end, where the shoreline is lined with lush, hanging trees. The beach was peaceful, with only a few locals walking their dogs. We strolled along the coast until we found a perfect spot to relax, and even discovered a swing hanging from one of the trees, adding to the charm of the place.

We had planned to visit Playa Punta Uva for kayaking at Sloth Point to spot some wildlife. However, we got a little confused, as there are two beaches with the same name on opposite sides of the point. In the end, we ended up at the beach on the east side, which was wonderfully quiet, with just a few surfers around. We took a leisurely walk along the beach to the river inlet, then made our way back to find a perfect spot beneath the palm trees to relax.

As we were leaving, we made a quick stop at a famous hanging palm tree known as Iara Sosa. The palm grows at a unique low angle, stretching out over the ocean, making it a popular photo spot. The beach was a bit busier here, but as we arrived, we were lucky enough to spot a massive green iguana lounging nearby.

La Fortuna 

We drove 4-5 hours to reach La Fortuna, and the sight of the towering Arenal Volcano was truly awe-inspiring as we made our way there.

Where to stay? Hotel Arenal Glamping

We stayed in a luxurious and spacious glamping tent, part of a beautiful resort-style complex. The large pool was a highlight, surrounded by lush trees, comfy lounge areas, and an elevated jacuzzi. There was also an open-air gym with stunning views of the jungle. Above the gym, a space was set aside for yoga, massages, and even a small cinema. We treated ourselves to a couples massage, and it was nothing short of amazing. Plus, a delicious buffet breakfast was included each morning, making it the perfect start to the day.

Here are some must-try food spots in La Fortuna:

• Jungle Bowls: This place serves up healthy, delicious bowls so big that one is practically a meal on its own—and we could barely finish it!

• The Green Spoon: A cozy vegetarian restaurant right next door to Jungle Bowls, perfect for fresh, plant-based dishes.

• El Chante Verde: We loved it so much, we went back for two dinners! The churros were unforgettable, and the menu features a variety of international dishes made with carefully sourced, local produce. Just thinking about it makes my mouth water!

We woke up early to make sure we were at the gates of La Fortuna Waterfall as soon as they opened at 7 am. The waterfall is just a short drive from La Fortuna, and a few other visitors had the same idea. Near the entrance, there's a viewing platform offering a beautiful overlook of the waterfall. The walk down to the base is a well-maintained staircase that takes about 15 minutes. Once at the bottom, the waterfall pool is surrounded by large boulders. You’re allowed to swim in the pool, but I’d recommend staying a bit farther from the base of the waterfall, as the current is strong. For a calmer swim, head further down the river where the waters are gentler.

Once again, we were up early to drive to Blue Falls, another stunning waterfall located about 1.5 hours from La Fortuna. To visit, you must purchase tickets online—click here to book. At the entrance, there's an area with Wi-Fi and instructions on how to buy tickets if you haven’t already. You need to book a specific 30-minute time slot for entry. A few items, like drones, aren’t allowed, and swimming is prohibited due to the volcanic chemicals in the water.

Our first stop was the main attraction: Blue Falls. We made our way down a winding stairway to get as close as we could to the falls, where the vibrant blue water was truly mesmerizing. We continued hiking along the trail, which led us to a section of the river where the regular water meets the striking blue volcanic water. Along the way, we stopped with other groups to observe two tiny snakes that had been spotted by the guides—an unexpected but fascinating sight!

We booked a Farm-to-Table cooking class through Airbnb, and we got lucky—it turned out we were the only ones in the group. The class was led by a local cook, with a host translating as needed. Before we got started, we took a stroll around the small farm, where we were introduced to a variety of plants and even a cute baby goat.

The first dish we made was ceviche, featuring raw fish, and we were even let in on the secret ingredient! After chopping everything up, we moved on to making *panadas* from scratch. We began by preparing the cornbread dough and shaping it into circles, then filled them with a mix of vegetables, cheese, beans, and meat. While the *panadas* fried, we used a wooden tool to crush plantains (a type of banana used in cooking) before adding them to the pan. By the end of the class, there was so much delicious food that we couldn’t quite finish it all!

The Rope Swing is a great way to beat the heat during the hot midday sun, as there's plenty of shade nearby. You can pay for parking on the side of the road by the bridge or find a spot in a car park a bit farther away. The river was pretty busy when we arrived, so we wandered a little further down to find a peaceful spot in the shade. Watching people take turns swinging into the water was highly entertaining, and I couldn’t resist joining in myself. The adrenaline rush is real—each swing makes you want to go higher and higher!

For sunset, we headed to Arenal 1968, a Volcanic National Park. At the ticket office, the staff explained the different trails, and we opted for the longest route. The first section led us up a lava wall with large black rocks, and at the top, we were rewarded with the best view of the volcano. The descent took us to a volcanic lake, and on our way down, a group walking in the opposite direction tipped us off about a large group of howler monkeys nearby. We crept forward, keeping quiet, until we heard their loud calls directly above us in the trees. We also spotted a cayman resting on the surface of the water, blending in so well that it almost looked like a log. We wrapped up the hike at a hilltop viewpoint, offering 360-degree views—perfect for sunset. There are suspended rope beds where you can lie back and relax. While there was a lot of construction happening during our visit, they’re working on improving the facilities, so expect even better amenities when you go!

On our drive to Monteverde, we decided to stop by Mistico Park for a self-guided tour. The 3.2km (2-hour) walk through the tropical rainforest was easy to follow and led us across six massive hanging bridges. Halfway across one of the tallest bridges, we were lucky enough to spot monkeys in the distance, swinging gracefully through the tree canopy. One of the highlights of the walk was looking up at the impressive Ceiba pentandra (also known as the "broccoli tree"), with its enormous branches and leaves creating a stunning natural structure. The entry fee is $28 per person, and it’s definitely worth it for the views and wildlife encounters.

Just past the exit to Mistico Park, along the edge of Lake Pueblo Nuevo, we spotted a group of Coatis along the roadside. We pulled over, and the curious creatures quickly approached us. It seemed like they were used to being fed, despite it being discouraged. While they may appear friendly, it’s important to be cautious—these animals can be unpredictable.

Monteverde

The drive to Monteverde was absolutely breathtaking. I've never seen so many rainbows in one trip! One minute, we were surrounded by clouds with low visibility, and the next, the skies would clear, revealing spectacular rainbows. It’s no wonder the region is called the cloud forest. The drive also took us past fields with plenty of horses, adding to the charm of the journey.

Where to stay? Alas Glamping

Located just outside of Monteverde in a peaceful area, Alas Glamping offered a cozy and tranquil stay. The tent, perched on a wooden platform, had a shared kitchen and bathroom, which made it feel like a perfect blend of nature and comfort. From our tent, we had an amazing view of the rolling hills and spent some time watching the horses graze. The bird life around here was incredible, with hummingbirds buzzing around the garden, busy pollinating the flowers. Breakfast, which cost $12 per person, was served in a cabana-style hut right in front of our tent. It included fresh fruit, drinks, and Casado—traditional Costa Rican fare.

We highly recommend dining and drinking at these spots in Monteverde:

• Farm To Table Escondido: This place is perfect for a sunset meal, with outdoor dining on an elevated terrace offering stunning views. Known for its wood-fired pizzas and fresh, locally sourced produce, it’s a must-visit.

• Stella’s Monteverde: The food here was exceptional. Nestled in the forest, the restaurant’s back garden attracts a variety of birdlife, and we even spotted an agouti (a large rodent) rummaging in the bushes. It’s a charming and peaceful setting to enjoy a delicious meal.

• Monteverde Brewery Co: They grow their ingredients to craft their beers, and it shows! We visited during happy hour and enjoyed some fantastic pale ales. A great place to relax and savor the flavors of the region.

Monteverde is known for its incredible biodiversity, much of which comes to life at night. To experience this, we joined one of the many night walk tours in the area. Our tour took us above the El Establo Mountain Hotel, where we were treated to a breathtaking sunset view before heading into the forest. Though the tour was busy, we were divided into smaller groups to make it more manageable. Whenever one group spotted something interesting, they’d pass along the information to the others. We encountered a variety of wildlife, including tarantulas, frogs, insects, birds, and even an olingo (a type of possum). Each participant was given a flashlight to help search for animals, adding to the adventure. The highlight of the tour came at the end when they used a red light in the parking lot to reveal glowing scorpions—an incredible sight!

Cafe Monteverde Farm and Roastery Tour was hands down my favorite experience of our entire trip. The tour kicked off with a quick introduction to the company, the coffee, and its history. From there, we set off with our guide, who had an impressive 25 years of experience as a picker before becoming a guide. He was not only incredibly knowledgeable but also hilarious, keeping us engaged the whole time.

We then got to try our hand at picking coffee beans, collecting them in a basket for about five minutes. It was a fun and hands-on experience that gave us a true sense of the hard work involved. Afterward, we gathered around a table to taste a variety of coffee, including light, medium, and strong roasts, as well as a blend and an organic variety. The coffee was brewed both with a French press and drip, which showcased the different flavors.

We also learned about the other plants grown on the farm, which support biodiversity and provide food for volunteers and visitors. To wrap up the tour, we enjoyed a delicious traditional lunch, making it the perfect end to a memorable and immersive experience. Naturally, we couldn’t leave without buying a few bags of their amazing coffee!

Santa Teresa

Santa Teresa is famous for its world-class surfing and stunning, wild beaches. It’s a popular destination for tourists, offering a mix of trendy cafes, restaurants, boutique shops, luxury hotels, and nature retreats. A 4km unpaved road runs through the town, with the beach stretching out on one side.

The roads can be quite bumpy, and our car ride to our accommodation had us on edge. We quickly decided we didn’t want to make that trip again, even in our 4x4, so our Airbnb host arranged for a quad bike to be delivered to us. We rented it for two days at $80, plus $20 for fuel. Unfortunately, when we left the bike at Manzanillo, someone stole our helmets, and we had to pay $120 to replace them. While many locals don’t wear helmets, it’s worth noting that there’s a hefty fine if you’re caught without one. Another common mistake is driving the quad bike on the beach, as it can damage the bike and leave you with a significant repair bill.

Where to stay? For those seeking adventure, we highly recommend Sangha Retreat.

This glamping-style treehouse is nestled on a serene mountainside just above town. The balcony faces the jungle, offering a peaceful and immersive experience in nature.

Fresh, local, and organic produce are highly valued in Santa Teresa, making it not only the best food we had in Costa Rica but also the priciest. Here are some must-visit restaurants and cafes:

• Mantarraya: Located on the way to Playa Hermosa, this cafe is a local favorite. The beautiful boho hut is shaded by a large tree, creating a relaxed atmosphere.

• Brekkie: We had the most delicious date banana latte here. A perfect start to the day!

• The Bakery: A great spot for breakfast, especially if you need something quick. We grabbed some pastries and fresh orange juice for our long drive to Uvita.

• Pan de Azucar Ice Cream Shop: So good we came back twice! You can even opt for a chimney pastry to serve your ice cream instead of the usual cone.

• Eat Street: If you're undecided on what to eat or just want a quick, tasty meal, Eat Street is perfect. This unique shipping container setup features three different restaurants and a bar with shared seating in the middle. Options include Sunrise Cafe, NoMad Tex-Mex Kitchen, Happy Bowls, and Boule Bar.

• Convivio: This fine dining gem is located just as you enter Santa Teresa. It was one of the best dining experiences we’ve ever had. The tapas-style menu lets you sample a variety of dishes, and we went for five to share along with two cocktails. Though it’s a bit pricier, costing us around $100, the quality and flavors are absolutely worth it.

We spent our first morning surfing at Playa Hermosa, a great beach for beginners with its soft, sandy shores and no rocks. It’s a popular spot for surf lessons. Just a few hundred meters from the beach, we found Jackalopes, where I rented a board and rash guard for the day for $20. Perfect for a relaxed yet fun introduction to surfing!

One of the most iconic wild beaches we visited was Montezuma, about an hour's drive from Santa Teresa by quad bike. The road we took was the most direct route, but I’d only recommend it for quad bikes—there were signs along the way warning cars to turn back, with contact numbers in case they got stuck! Once we arrived in Montezuma, it was a bit tricky to find the best beach, so we decided to use the drone to explore the coastline and spot a hidden gem. We ended up at Playa Las Manchas, a secluded cove just before you reach Montezuma. This small beach is nestled between rock formations, with a row of palm trees welcoming you as you walk onto the sand. Perfect for a peaceful retreat away from the crowds!

As you drive into Montezuma, you'll find a stunning waterfall just off the main coastal road. The car park is easily accessible, with a small fee of $2. From there, it's a 30-minute hike following the river upstream. The path can be tricky in parts, with tree roots crossing the trail and stones to balance on as you cross the river. We recommend wearing proper shoes—our Birkenstocks made it a bit more challenging!

When we finally reached the base of the waterfall, we were eager to cool off in the refreshing water. The waterfall is tiered, but we didn’t venture to the upper falls. It’s not too powerful, so you can swim right underneath it. If you're feeling adventurous, there's a ledge to the left where you can climb up and take a thrilling jump into the pool below!

We had originally booked a private sunset horseback riding tour at Playa Manzanillo with Horizonte Horse Experience, but unfortunately, one of the horses had an injury. After doing some research, we found that this company is highly reputable and treats its horses with great care. It's a good sign that they chose not to proceed with the tour until the horse was well. The 3-hour private tour costs $95 per person, while a group tour costs $70 per person. For more info or to book, you can contact Michelle on WhatsApp at +506 8383 9229.

Since our horseback ride was canceled, we decided to head to Hotel Vista de Olasa to enjoy the sunset from their incredible infinity pool. It’s hard to beat the view here—it’s arguably the best in Santa Teresa! You don’t need to be a guest to enjoy the pool, but there is a minimum spend of $30 at the bar for visitors (which is about two cocktails each). We had the most amazing pina colada we’ve ever tasted, made with freshly squeezed pineapple juice and coconut cream. You can even swim up to the bar and relax on the submerged seats!

On our last morning, we took the quad bike north along the coast to Playa Manzanillo, a stunning wild beach. We discovered a picturesque spot where the river meets the beach, surrounded by palm trees, tall grass, and weathered tree trunks. Since it was early, we had the entire beach to ourselves, except for a few locals riding their motorbikes towards Santa Teresa for work. It was the perfect peaceful farewell to this beautiful place.

The drive from Santa Teresa to Uvita was long, but we made it just in time to catch the car ferry at Playa Naranjo. The ferry took us across the bay to Puntarenas in about 1.5 hours, saving us nearly 3 hours of driving around the coast. We were able to buy tickets on the spot, and the fare was around $28. For the ferry timetable, click here.

Uvita

Uvita is best known for its whale watching, as humpback whales migrate here from both the North and South to breed. We visited at the tail end of the whale season, so the chances of spotting whales were slim. The prime time for whale watching is between January and March, as well as July and October. Uvita also offers plenty of horse riding tours for those looking for an adventure.

We opted to stay in Uvita instead of Manuel Antonio since accommodation here is much more affordable. The drive from Manuel Antonio to Uvita is about an hour, and we were surprised by the vast palm tree plantations lining both sides of the road.

Where to stay? Hotel Por Que No

Check-in was super easy with an automated process, and the hotel has a security gate with parking available inside. It’s a small property with just four rooms. Next to the pool, there’s a cozy lounge area and an open-air kitchen.

Here are some excellent restaurants and cafes we ate at:

• Falafel Uvita: Delicious and healthy falafel options.

• Restaurante Por El Camino: From the outside, it may not look like much, but their authentic wood-fired pizza is incredible. You can even watch the pizza maker at work from the outdoor dining area.

• Samurai Fusion: A modern Japanese restaurant. We enjoyed both breakfast and dinner here.

• Maka.Y.Qué? Lifestyle Nutrition: A great spot for a wide range of healthy smoothies.

We also made a trip to Manuel Antonio to experience the Brisa Elegante Sailing Tour. This 4-hour tour takes place on a 100-foot wooden sailboat and offers both morning and afternoon departures. Fortunately, there was only one other family on our morning tour, but the boat can accommodate up to 46 guests.

The tour departs from Marina Pez Vela, following the stunning coastline of Manuel Antonio Beach and the surrounding untouched rainforest. The anchor was dropped at Playa Biesanz, where we had the chance to swim, snorkel, stand-up paddleboard, kayak, and enjoy the water. The 100-meter swim to the volcanic snorkel spot was quite an adventure, and we were required to wear a life jacket, flippers, and a snorkel. There were plenty of colorful fish swimming around the volcanic rocks, but sadly, we didn’t encounter dolphins, turtles, manta rays, or whales. We did, however, have a close encounter with a large bird flying next to the boat.

The highlight of the trip was the “Walk The Plank” challenge. The plank at the back of the ship wasn’t lowered, so I had to climb up and jump about 8 meters into the water.

Onboard, the crew was fantastic, and the service was top-notch. The first alcoholic cocktail was included, along with soft drinks, water, coffee, and fresh fruit. Before heading back, the chef prepared a delicious lunch with options of fish, chicken, or vegetarian dishes.

Learn from our mistake and don’t wait until you’re in Manuel Antonio to try to book tickets for the National Park. Tickets for Manuel Antonio and other national parks can be purchased online in advance (click here). There’s a limit to how many visitors can enter, and they tend to sell out months ahead of time.

Since we couldn't get into the park, we headed to the nearby Espadilla Beach instead. We found free parking along the road just past the Igloo Beach Lodge and enjoyed a short walk to the beach. The beach is lined with palm trees, creating a beautiful tropical atmosphere. We were lucky enough to spot several capuchin monkeys and iguanas along the shore. These creatures are pretty tame, and you can get surprisingly close, but be cautious, as they can become aggressive. A few vendors were strolling the beach selling refreshing coconuts to passersby.

For our final sunset in Costa Rica, we booked a horse riding tour at Rancho La Merced, located just outside of Uvita. This ranch came highly recommended, with better reviews than many of the tours in town. The 2-hour ride costs $65 per person. Since most horses in Costa Rica are on the smaller side, they gave me one of their largest horses to accommodate my height. Despite never having ridden before, I was amazed at how well-trained the horses were.

We began our ride through the jungle, eventually making our way to Playa Hermosa. The horses followed each other in a line, and we had the option to gallop along the beach. The guide helped me get my horse into a gallop, and I was pleasantly surprised at how fast we went. We watched the sunset over the beach and then retraced our steps through the jungle. As it got darker, our guide pointed out glowing fire beetles along the way. Back at the ranch, we were treated to refreshing watermelon, which was also a snack for the horses.

If we had more time in Uvita, we would have loved to explore more waterfalls, especially Nauyaca Waterfall, which is considered one of the most stunning waterfalls in Costa Rica.

The next morning, we woke up early to ensure we had enough time for the 4-hour drive back to San Jose Airport.