Ultimate 8-Day West Crete Itinerary: Discover the Best of Nature & Culture
West Crete is famous for its green landscapes and rough coastlines. The White Mountains have moonlike landscapes and get snow in the cooler months. The lively towns of Rethymno and Chania have both beauty and history. Inland you will find more beautiful little villages and imposing gorges.
We visited Crete at the start of July 2023. For the 8 days that we were there, it was sunny with a top temperature of around 30-35 degrees Celsius every day. This is how we recommend you spend your time in Western Crete:
Rethymno, Seaside Town
Chania, Seaside Town
Souda Bay War Cemetery
Falasarna Private Cruise to Gramvousa Fortress and Balos Lagoon
Preveli Beach
Preveli Monastery
Kourtaliotiko Gorge
Askifou, Mountain Village
Hora Sfakion, Loutro (Fishing Village) & Sweet Water Beach (Glyka Nera)
Frangokastello Castle
Elafonisi Beach
Topolia, Mountain Village
Fres, Mountain Village
Food
The Cretan culture is slightly different to the Greek Culture and this is evident in the food and drinks. However sharing different meals is still popular, this is called Mezze, which we did for most meals. The service was excellent everywhere and most restaurants provided complimentary dessert and raki (grape brandy) at the end. Throughout this blog, we will recommend our favourite restaurants and cafes.
There are many superb street markets. We flew into Heraklion and on the drive our accommodation found a Tuesday Street Market on a street named Anapafseos. We bought fresh supplies to take to our villa including corn, honey, beetroot, olive oil, cherries, salad and dried fruit.
Car hire
We booked a car through Voyager in Crete. We could pick the car up at Heraklion Airport and drop it off at Chania Airport. They can also bring the car to you. We got a discount code from our villa accommodation. At the end of our trip, we dropped the car off at Chania Airport which was very easy as their stand was close to the departures terminal. Crete is a massive island with so much to do so we covered over 1000km in the car.
Where we stayed?
For the first night, we stayed close to Heraklion Airport at Helen’s Luxury Apartment before the hire car was dropped off to us and we drove to our villa near Chania the next day. The hotel was a 5-minute drive from the airport but we didn’t arrange a transfer so a taxi charged us 17€.
We stayed in Paidochori, a quiet hilltop village in a pink villa called Listen to Nature in a Renovated Traditional Hilltop Villa Liodosifis. It was incredible with 3 bedrooms, a pool, a sun terrace and 2 outdoor dining areas. The villa can accommodate up to 7 people. When we arrived the host had prepared a home-cooked meal, paprika and vine leaves filled with rice, that we could heat up in the oven. We had a picturesque view of the sea, mountains and agricultural valley.
At the pool we watched the swallows dip and dive around the villa, sometimes touching the pool surface to collect water or cool down. On the hour the church bell would ring from the nearby church. Like many Greek villages, there were many cats, we even had a litter of newlyborn kittens sheltering underneath an outdoor bbq. The mother cat was very friendly.
There wasn’t much in this little village but it was the perfect place to relax. and we had to drive everywhere. We went for a walk uphill towards the White Mountains, passing olive groves, vineyards, cactus, fig trees and wildflowers. We decided to walk back after reaching a flock of sheep with a shepherd.
We were given recommendations for restaurants and things to do around the area. The small village of Babilis located next to the highway had a shell petrol station, a supermarket with all essential supplies and a highly recommended restaurant called Το Περασμα. It is a gyros and grill restaurant with outdoor dining underneath a beautiful large tree. We had 3 gyros, a large salad, wine and bread and it only cost us 18€. Chania and Rethymno are the 2nd and 3rd largest towns on Crete and both were only a 30-minute drive away from the villa.
Rethymno, Seaside Town
On the drive to our villa, we stopped in the seaside town of Rethymno. We parked on the edge of the old town, opposite the city gardens, and a day ticket cost 5€. However it is closed on Thursdays.
It has a beautiful old town which has a strong Venetian and Ottoman influence. The most notable Venetian landmarks are the Fortezza Castle and Rimondi Fountain. Some buildings have a Turkish-style timber structure on the first floor and there are several mosques. Many streets had large blooming flowers.
We had lunch on a palm tree-lined street called Othonas. It has traditional Cretan food, it was delicious and the service was excellent. We visited some beautiful stores including 35N Cretan Distillery, The House of Linen, and Greek Angels (for fans).
We loved Rethymno so much that we came back to visit the small port and have dinner. We found the port to be a bit pricey and touristy so we walked into the old town and discovered a small restaurant called Vatsiko. All the dining is outside on the street and only a small path is left for the pedestrians. It is quite entertaining watching and listening to the people walking past. Inside they had an open kitchen where we could watch them cook, a display of their fresh produce in baskets and large film photos hung up on the wall. They opened the restaurant in early 2023. The menu was small but every dish was tempting. It was very reasonable and it cost around 50€ for the four of us.
On the hill above Rethymno, there is a wonderful modern cafe called Bikakis with a fantastic view. When we drove through Rethymno, we went here for pastries, coffee and orange juice.
Chania, Seaside Town
In Chania, we parked next to the Old Chania Market. Unfortunately, the Market was temporarily closed as it was being restored. The online ticket purchasing system wasn’t working but you can also pay for parking at Tempo Cade Fresh Juices nearby. We paid around 1€ per hour. Around the corner is an excellent coffee roaster called Monogram and they also have delicious cakes.
We continued walking to the Old Venetian Port. You can walk along the port wall to the Lighthouse. On the waterfront is the Kucuk Hasan Mosque, a former Ottoman Mosque converted into an art space. On the other side, next to the harbour entrance, is the Venetian Fortress. The best view of the harbour is from the rooftop bar at the luxurious Casa Delfino Hotel. The shaded alleyways of the old town have many pot plants and overhanging vegetation.
We came back to Chania to go to a restaurant called Kritamon Wine Restaurant. It was recommended by many friends who have been here before. The prices are higher but the quality, service and creativity of the dishes are well worth the price.
Souda Bay War Cemetery
15 minutes drive from Chania is Souda Bay War Cemetery, next to Candera Beach. Crete played an important role in both World Wars. There are symmetrically rows of white gravestones of Commonwealth Soldiers (mostly Australian and New Zealand). It’s emotional reading about the history and seeing the gravestones of hundreds of young men.
Falasarna Private Cruise to Gramvousa and Balos Lagoon
After speaking with the hotel manager about the best boat tour we decided on Falasarna Private Cruises. We drove to Falasarna where we met the driver and tour guide (husband and wife team). We started at 8.30 a.m. in the 12-metre Koursaros inflatable speed boat. From here we headed north and explored the spectacular coastline and western Crete. This coastline can be exposed to the wind so sometimes they have to cancel. The cliffs tower above the turquoise water. It costs 605€ for a 6-hour tour. The boat took care of the waves with ease and got us to Gramvousa (first stop) rapidly, we were one of the first boats there. The first thing we did was hike up the steep rocky stairway to the Venetian Fortress. From the top, there is a breathtaking view down to the beach and across the lagoon to Balos. Next to the beach, there are remains of buildings left behind by pirates. Now the only resident on this island is a man who lives here for 6 months every year. After our 1 hour hike, we had a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear water. The best spot to swim is on the right side where it is mostly sand. We were here for 2 hours before getting back in the boat and heading to Balos.
The boat anchored just off Balos Beach so we jumped in the water and swam to shore. The sand was white and the water was an extraordinary shade of turquoise. There’s a small shallow inlet which lets water in. In some spots, the water only covers your feet and the water is so warm it feels like a bath. Soon after we arrived the crowds started to arrive on the other side of the peninsula in big ships. That was our cue to swim back to the boat and have lunch which consisted of sandwiches, fruit, sweets and drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) You can also reach the beach from the car park, it’s a 2 km walk down the mountain. We were here for just under 3 hours before heading back.
The pickup and dropoff point is located next to a traditional fish tavern called Captain Nicolas. It is directly on the beach and you can choose to sit underneath the trees on the sand or the open patio. A perfect spot for sunset! For the last 25 years, the family has been offering locally caught fish which the grandma cooks.
We drove north along the coast to Falasarna Beach, voted as one of the best beaches on Crete. This large beach has many beach beds and umbrellas where you can order food and drinks. There are also many water activities including jetski, water skiing and windsurfing. We parked the car in the free parking and went to the first beach bar called Liokalyvo Beach House. It’s boho-themed with comfortable sofas, palm trees and house music. Waiters on 3 wheeled bikes would deliver orders to guests down on the beach. Expect to pay a lot more at this busy beach.
Preveli Beach
We were up before sunrise to drive to Preveli Beach. The drive there took us to the southern coast, through Kourtaliotiko Gorge with sheer rock faces towering above us, on both sides. There are 3 ways to reach the beach. We chose the western route. From the car park at the top of the cliff, we walked down the steep track for 500 metres (20 minutes). There are several viewpoints where we looked down on Preveli Beach and the Palm Forest and River. From the east, you can park your car at Ammoudi and walk to the beach which is easier (400m, 5 minutes). Alternatively, small boats are running to Preveli from Agia Galini and Plakias.
We were early, so the only other people on the beach looked like a hippie community with their chanting rituals, yoga, nudity, musical instruments and burying each other. From the beach, we walked along the river underneath the shade of palm trees and started climbing up the gorge. The path on the eastern side has a fire danger warning and is overgrown so it’s best to take the path on the other side of the river. The mountain-fed river meets the sea so the sea water is cooler. The sand is darker with pebbles. We found a cute little white church on the eastern side of the beach. There is also a love heart-shaped rock sticking out of the water. There is a little snack bar but no beds or umbrellas. We found a nice spot, shaded by the boulders.
Preveli Monastery
On the drive back we drove 2 km to Preveli Monastery (rear). The beautiful complex is on a mountaintop overlooking the vast blue sea. Australian and New Zealand soldiers were protected here in WW2. The museum here contains numerous religious relics and icons. On the way back we passed the beautiful Preveli Bridge. Nearby is the other complex of Preveli Monastery (lower).
Kourtaliotiko Gorge
Our next stop was Kourtaliotiko Gorge. There are many gorges on Crete but from recommendations, this was the best. The car parks were full so we had to drive further along and park on the side of the road. We walked back along the road to the entrance gate. The stairway down is steep. We reached a fork in the path and went to the right. If you take the path left, it will take you to the top of the waterfall. The path to the right took us to the bottom of the waterfall. It’s known as the ‘water cave’ but you can see the sky from within. For the last section, we had to climb down a short steel ladder. There’s a large pool which leads into the gorge. Next to the pool are little waterfalls and a cliff face covered in dripping vegetation. We swam 25-metres swim into the gorge. Once inside there is a sand bank to stand on and walk further in. The water drips down like rain and it’s very cold. You can also go on canyoning tours.
Askifou
On the drive to Hora Sfakion through the White Mountains, we stopped for coffee at Visalo Ceramics and Cafe. It’s located in the mountain village of Askifou and from the balcony we had a stunning mountain view. We tried the local speciality, Sfakion Pie, these are made with fresh, local mizithra cheese and mountain honey. We loved it so much we came back for more on the way back. The coffee is also excellent and is served with beautiful ceramics. All the ceramics are made here and displayed in a separate room to be purchased. They also serve ice cream made from goat’s milk. Underneath is a traditional bakery which also sells local products and bulk packs of frozen Sfakion Pies which can be heated up in the microwave or oven.
Hora Sfakion
We arrived in Hora Sfakion just after 10.00 am and it was already busy with no available car parking. We continued driving down to the port and one of the boat staff said he could find us a park if we bought a boat ticket through Deligiannis. Parking was only 3€ for the day and we got a return ticket to Loutro for 13€ each. The boat had seating on the roof with unobstructed views. The boats came every 2 hours. Some other boat companies depart more frequently. Alternatively, you can also get smaller water taxis which are more expensive but flexible. Some people hike along the coastal path.
Loutro, Fishing Village
The boat took us along the scenic coastline to Loutro. All the houses are white with blue windows. There is a small walking path along the waterfront and past restaurants. There are several spots where you can rent beds and umbrellas. The best spot was on the peninsula where they had more comfortable beds scattered among the rocky landscape. It was calm here except for when the big boats came in.
Sweet Water Beach (Glyka Nera)
On the way back from Loutro we got off the boat at Sweet Water Beach (Glyka Nera). The beach is voted one of the best in Crete and we can understand why. The narrow pebbled beach is dwarfed by the sheer cliff face behind it. Beautiful green trees line the beach, perfect for those that don’t want to rent a bed and umbrella. It costs 10€ for 1 umbrella and 2 beds. If you walk to the other end of the beach the sand is finer and easier to walk on. However, this section of the beach seemed to be a nudist beach. The beach is protected by a cove so it’s not windy and the water is calm. The water is perfect for swimming and it gets deep quickly. Where the boat drops you off, is only one snack bar but they are reasonably priced. It cost us approx 6€ for 500ml of wine, 2-3€ for a beer, 1€ for water and 4€ for fries. For the extra stop, we had to pay 3€ each on the boat ride back to Hora Sfakion.
Frangokastello Castle
On the way back we went past another highly-rated beach called Frangokastello. A Venetian Castle built in 1371-74 is next to the beach. The castle has a simple rectangular shape. We could look inside through the windows but couldn’t enter. We continued along the coast for 1.6km to reach a lovely family-run restaurant called Taverna Akti. The location was spectacular, above the beach with a view of the coastline. We sat on the covered outdoor terrace and had dinner as the sunset. Instead of looking at the menu, the waiter suggested we come to the kitchen and have a look at some pre-prepared dishes they made earlier that day. We chose the dishes we liked the look of which was much easier and quicker. The food was mostly vegetarian and it was delicious. The meal with drinks was under 50€ for the 4 of us.
Elafonisi Beach
Elafonsini is one of the most popular and highly rated beaches on Crete. From our villa, it took us 2 hours to drive here. Along the way, many stands are selling local products including honey, olive oil, soap and wine. We recommend that you get here early to get a good spot and experience the beach without the midday crowds. The first car park is smaller with some shade. 250 metres down the road is the larger car park. Parking costs 5€ per day. From the car park, it’s a 1 km gradual walk downhill to the beach. There are many beds and umbrellas on both sides of the lagoon but they fill up quickly. It costs 20€ for 1 umbrella and 2 beds. We found an available daybed set in front of Kandanos Cantina, quite close to the water. The prices at the Cantina were reasonable, similar to Sweet Water Beach (Glyka Nera). The clear turquoise water and the pink-hued sands along the shoreline made this beach so special. We explored the shallow waters and rocky outcrops.
Topolia, Mountain Village
On the way back we stopped at one of Crete’s most photogenic villages called Topolia. Situated in the mountains, the town is small but spread out along a narrow road. By chance, we came across a beautiful shop and restaurant called Topos & Elia. We spent a long time taking portraits on the front verandah with the afternoon light. The verandah is covered by bamboo sticks creating artistic shadows on the colourful sofa and pot plants. We had a salad and a drink at the back terrace overlooking the mountainous landscape. The shop is located at the front and sells delicious homemade ice cream. Along the road are quaint buildings, plants, fruit on display, colourful details and traditional products decorating the walls.
Fres, Mountain Village
Close to our villa is the small mountain village of Fres. We went to an excellent restaurant called Τά Λεμονάδικα, one of our favourites. All the guests dine across the road in the garden in front of the church. At night, the light bulbs hanging across the garden light up. The large menu has a variety of traditional dishes. If we had more time in Crete we would have had dinner here again. But we came back to the village the next morning and had a coffee and more Sfakion Pies in the square. There was only one other local who we had a nice chat to. Also in the square, opposite the little church, is a little shop with homemade soap, balsamic and wine. He sells other products from the region that he has carefully chosen. He makes the soap in the shop so he showed us his process. Also, he gave us a free wine tasting and he has a wealth of knowledge.
We packed so much into 1 week but still left Crete with more to do. There are not many places that leave us with this urge to return.