Sitting on the edge of Asia and Europe, Istanbul is one of the most extraordinary cities we have visited. Istanbul is home to incredible architecture, delicious food, unique culture and a rich history (dating back 2,600 years). Istanbul has a population of 16 million people so it can be chaotic at times. We found the people to be very friendly and had some genuine chats with people we met. We spent 5 nights here in total and packed our days with sightseeing and activities. We hope our experience can help you see the best that Istanbul has to offer.

Walking tour
Mosques
Topkapi Palace
Grand Bazaar & Spice Bazaar
Sunset Boat Cruise
Galata Bridge
Galata Tower
Kamondo Stairs
Fener and Balat
Nostalgic Tram
Hammam

Getting here

There are 2 airports which are on different sides of the city. So make sure you know which one you are leaving from. We flew into Sabiha Gokcen (SAW).

Visitors from some countries need to apply and pay for an e-visa before arriving.

At the airport we got SIM cards then booked a taxi through Uber. It’s a bit more expensive but it feels more secure.

Alternatively, you can get a bus which will cost between 1-5€ compared to over 30€ for a taxi. Without heavy traffic it will take approx. 50 minutes by taxi and approx. 100 minutes by bus to Sultanahmet (City Centre).

How to get around?

The best way to get around is by foot, taxi and public transport. The public transport services includes the metro, ferry, tram, funicular, bus and cable car.

We mostly got around by foot. You can purchase public transport cards (Istanbulkart) and recharge them at kiosks on the street, the airports and bus/boat terminals. The card pays off after 3 single rides and is valid for the entire public transport network. A single ticket costs 6 TL. With Istanbulkart you will normally pay 4.03 TL for a ride, but the card costs 13 TL. Another option is to get an Istanbul Welcome Card that includes an Istanbulkart and more benefits.

Istanbul’s traffic is chaotic so sometimes it’s faster to walk compared to a taxi especially if you’re trying to get across the Galata Bridge. Going from the historic district (South) across the bridge to the North we noticed a massive change in architecture. The South side has many influences from the Ottoman Empire with many Mosques. The North side feels as if you are in a European city with both grand and colourful buildings.

I don’t suggest driving around Istanbul. However, if you want to leave the city and explore more of Turkey then a rental car will be more flexible and may be cheaper than flying. We got a rental car from Six60 at the Istanbul Hotel Hilton. However, we booked it online through VIP cars and it was much cheaper this way. We paid around 100€ for 3 days. We drove to Ephesus and Pamukkale. Leaving Istanbul wasn’t too bad but coming back in rush hour was extremely stressful. We struggled to find a petrol station and then find our way back. Google maps was taking us in circles and in the end we had to guess our way.

Where to stay?

Istanbul is enormous so there are many areas you can stay. We found it difficult to decide on where to stay so we stayed at 2 hotels on the European side, both were excellent and we highly recommend them. If you have enough time here, we think it’s a good idea to stay at more than 1 hotel. We found that accommodation is really affordable.

For the first 2 nights we were at Hotel Miniature. They have a rooftop terrace with an amazing view of Sultanahmet (Historic District). It was a short walk to the Grand Bazaar, Old City Square, Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque. If it’s your first time here, we recommend you stay here as it’s the historical and cultural heart of the city.

For the last 3 nights we stayed at the Soul Hotel and got a whole different experience of Istanbul. It is located across the Galata Bridge in the Beyoglu district. The streets were less busy with trendy bars/restaurants and boutique shops. The streets are much steeper so getting around by foot is a bit harder.

Walking Tour

Istanbul is such a large city with so much to do and see. So we suggest that the first thing to do is go on a walking tour to get your bearings and learn about the city. There are many walking tour options on Airbnb, we highly recommend you do it with Umut. Click here to view and book on AirBnB. He brought a lot of positive energy and cracked many jokes. We were a small group, so it was super flexible on what we wanted to see. He gave us a really good insight into current day Istanbul, taught us some Turkish words and showed us some spots only locals would know. He explained the history so well that I’ll remember the facts for a long time.

He suggested foods to try which included traditional ice cream which is made from goat milk. There are many shops like this around Turkey. This was an unexpectedly hilarious experience. I went to grab the ice cream from the man in the traditional turkish outfit, he moved it away followed by a performance with quick movements of both the scoops and cones. There was also street food (corn cobs, nuts), turkish coffee and baklava. He took us to the best shop for baklava and other traditional Turkish desserts, called Karaköy Güllüoğlu.

Mosques

5 times a day, the call to prayer is played from speakers fixed to the many Mosque spires around the city so it can be heard from everywhere. Istanbul is the city with the most Mosques in Turkey. Please note that some of the Mosques are closed for visitors during prayer times. Also, try to avoid visiting during the day when the crowds are at their peak. You have to take off your shoes before entering. Entrance is free. Remember proper dress code. Women should cover their heads, arms, legs and shoulders. Men should wear trousers. In no particular order, we recommend that you visit the following Mosques.

Blue Mosque

It is one of the most beautiful with hand painted blue tiles on the interior walls. At night the mosque’s 5 main domes, 6 minarets (spires) and 8 secondary domes are lit up with blue light.

Hagia Sofia

Before Istanbul’s conquest by the Ottoman Empire, it was the Byzantine Empire’s religious centre. The size is incomprehensible and it was once the largest domed building. Construction dates back to 537 AD. Since then it has been converted from a Christian Church to a Mosque and Museum. Since 2020 it is no longer a museum and operates as a Mosque.

When we visited in the late afternoon the sunlight was pouring through one of the many windows, forming a ray of light and spotlight on the floor. It is open 24 hours so if you want to escape the crowds go at night.

Süleymanique Mosque

Located on the Third Hill with a spectacular view of the city. The park area at the front of the Mosque is a popular meeting spot for locals. Behind the walls of the Mosque are separate octagonal mausoleums for the burial of Suleiman the Magnificent (ruler that commissioned the Mosque) and his wife.

Beyazit Mosque

Located near the Grand Bazaar. We had to walk off the tourist route, through a Second Hand Book Bazaar to find this Mosque. It is much smaller than the other Mosques and it was a much more tranquil experience without the large crowds here. It is the oldest imperial complex (built by the Ottoman Empire) in Istanbul that is preserved in its original form.

Topkapi Palace

Topkapi Palace is an enormous museum that sits atop Seraglio Point (the most visible hill of Istanbul). The views from the palace are stunning. In the 15th and 16th centuries it was the main residence and administrative headquarters of the Ottoman Sultans. The Palace is an architectural landmark that holds some of the most revered treasures of the Ottoman Empire including weapons, watches, kaftans, artwork and religious relics. The palace consists of 3 entrance gates, an Outer Palace, an Inner Palace, 4 main courtyards and the Royal Gardens. In each courtyard there are pavilions with magnificent interior decorations.

The Harem was the highlight of our visit as it was the most beautiful section of the palace. It is located in the Inner Palace and is where female members of the family lived.

Also within the palace grounds is the Hagia Eirene, the second largest church of the East Roman Empire. It is one of the few churches in Istanbul that has not been converted into a Mosque.

The small kitchen houses are lined up in a row. We were shocked at the size of the pots and cooking utensils as the equipment looked like it could feed a giant.

It is open daily between 9am and 5pm except Tuesdays. In Summer it stays open until 7pm and may be open 7 days a week. It costs 200 TL to enter and it costs 100 TL extra to visit Harem. Or a combined ticket for 285 TL which includes all parts of the palace. We suggest visiting early to avoid crowds and the heat of the day. Click here for more information on the official website.

Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is the largest covered market in the world. It is often regarded as the first shopping mall in the world. Many of the shops sell traditional products including carpet, lamps, jewelry, furniture, clothes and leather. The opening hours are from 9am to 7pm but it is closed on Sundays and holidays.

Spice Bazaar

The Spice Bazaar is also known as the Egyptian Bazaar. It is located near the Grand Bazaar. It is in a long and narrow building so it feels busy being shoulder to shoulder with others. Like most shops and markets in Istanbul the shop owners are very persistent with trying to get you to try and buy something. Here you can buy spices, Turkish delights, jewelry, souvenirs and dried fruit and nuts.

Sunset Boat Cruise

We booked a Sunset Boat Tour with Blue Brothers through our hotel. There are many different companies offering this. We got picked up and dropped us off at the Soul Hotel. The boat had seating on the open deck so we had unobstructed views. There were several guides explaining the history of Istanbul in different languages. We traveled close along the European coast (heading North East) until Fatih Sultan Mehment Bridge then we crossed and came back along the Asian Side. We stopped at Beylerbeyi on the Asian side for an hour. From here we had an amazing view of the 15 July Martyrs Bridge which was lit up.

The cruise gave us an amazing perspective of the size of Istanbul. We passed many magnificent sights including Dolmabahçe Palace (Art Museum), Ciragen Palace Kempinski (Hotel), Ortaköy Mosque, Anatolian Fortress, Milli Saraylar (Palace) and Maiden’s Tower (small lighthouse island). If we had more time in Istanbul we would have liked to visit Ortaköy Mosque. Many people take photos on the water’s edge with the Mosque in the background.

Galata Bridge

We walked along the Galata Bridge a few times. Underneath the bridge on both sides there are many restaurants which serve mostly seafood on the water’s edge. From the road above many people fish.

Galata Tower

While we waited for it to open we had a coffee on Büyük Hendek Cd. From this street we had a superb view of the tower. We entered the tower just after it opened so we were one of the first people up at the top and took in the 360 degree panoramic views undisturbed. An elevator took us up rapidly however we had to walk back down the stairs going through museum displays. Most of the stairways are very narrow and I had to crouch down so I didn’t hit my head.

It costs 100 TL to enter. Opening hours are from 8.30am to midnight. Click here for more information on the official website.

Kamondo Stairs

En route to the Galata Bridge tower we came across this gorgeous concrete stairway. It is popular with photographers and fashion shoots. Click here to view location on Google Maps.

Fener and Balat

One of Istanbul’s hidden gems is the colourful neighbourhood of Fener and Balat. The best time to explore this old district is in the morning because it’s so quiet. We found beautiful colourful apartment buildings at Kiremit Caddesi Evleri. Afterwards we found more photogenic streets with art. Many old run down buildings have been converted into trendy cafes, restaurants and boutique shops. Many of these options are on Vodina Cd. We walked along this street and stopped for breakfast at Sehrengiz Cafe.

Nostalgic Tram

This beautiful red tram runs on Istiklal Caddesi between Taksim and Tünel Square. This is the main shopping street. This pedestrian street was overcrowded so we explored the quieter side streets and found some unique shops.

Hammam

Cagaloglu Hamami is a modern Turkish Bath in a 300 year old historical building. Many celebrities come here as it is located in a quiet district and not as well known. The male and female areas are separated. To start we were taken to individual cabins to change and leave our stuff. Our service went for approx 1 hour and 15 minutes and cost 70€ each. It included a traditional sauna, rubbing with kese and foam massage. Afterwards we were taken to a private cabin for a foot massage, followed by Turkish tea, home made sherbet and Turkish delight. There are several more services to choose from. It was such a relaxing experience and we came out of there feeling reborn.

Ultimate Guide To Istanbul